WOOD DUCK BOX CONSTRUCTION


Materials Needed:
1. Approx. 11 feet of ROUGH lumber (cedar), consisting of:

2. 25 - 8-penny galvanized nails.

3. 2 - double-headed staging nails or 2" brass wood screws.

4. 5 - 30-penny spikes for nailing completed box to pole or tree.


Assembly:
1. Cut out all the pieces as shown in Figure 2 to the dimensions shown. (Print out Figures 1 & 2 for ease in following directions)

2. Take the front board and determine the direction of the grain. The roughness of the grain must point upward so the ducklings can climb out easily. A small piece of screen can also be attached to the inside of the front, below the front opening, to facilitate the ducklings climbing out. Cut the front opening about 5 1/2" down from the top and in the center, using a jigsaw. The hole should be a circle, approx. 4" in diameter.

3. Place bottom board between the two side boards making sure the 9 5/8" dimension is towards the back and is flush with the back edges and bottom edges of the sides. Secure with 4 galvanized nails to the side pieces.

4. Take the front and set into place between the sides, with the entrance hole toward the top making sure the front overhangs the bottom board by 1/2". Secure with 1 galvanized nail on each side, approx. 2" down from the top edge of the front as shown in Figure 1 at point A.

5. Place back board on the rear edges of assembled side pieces and center it up and down. Secure with 8 galvanized nails through the back board to the side pieces and with 2 galvanized nails through te back board to the bottom board.

6. Position the top board against the back an on the top of the two sides, leaving about a 2" overhang at the front. Secure with 6 galvanized nails through the top into the sides only (not the front piece).

7. Position the top cleat snug to the top and secure with 2 galvanized nails. Clinch these nails on the back.

8. Position the lower cleat tight to the bottom and secure with 2 galvanized nails. Clinch these nails on the back.

9. Drive the 2 double-headed nails through the sides into the front as shown in Figure 1 at point B, one on each side. When removed, this allows the front to swing up for servicing. Removable wood screws can be substituted for the nails.

10. Drill 3, 3/16" holes through the upper cleat, angling downward and toward the center as shown in Figure 1 at point C. This makes it eaiser to nail to a post or tree.

11. Drill 2, 3/16" holes through the lower cleat angling upward and toward the center.

12. Drill 6, 3/16" holes through the bottom board for drainage and air circulation.


A Guide For Installation And Service
The best time to make an installation is when the area chosen has frozen over so that the ice is safe to walk on. Select a lone tree or install a pole adjacent to an area that in spring would have open, calm water; for example, a beaver pond, an old farm pond. a river back water, or a marsh.

For ease of installation and service, the bottom of the house should be approximately 4 feet above the ice. Nail the house to the tree or pole with the 5, 30-penny spikes through the holes in upper and lower cleats, Direction the house faces is not important. Trim all over-hanging branches and adjacent brush within 5 feet. This is to eliminate possible access by predators. A predator guard should now be installed. Using a piece of sheet metal (aluminum works best) of about 2 feet in width and of sufficient length to be wrapped around the tree or pole. Nail to the tree or-pole, making sure there are no points at seam for possible toe holds by predators. The top of the guard should be 2 or 3 inches below the house on the tree or pole. Put 3 or 4 inches of clean dry wood shavings (soft or hard) in the house for nesting material. Shavings are preferred.

The house should be serviced once a year when safe ice is available. This is the time to make any needed repairs and to make sure the house is tight and weather-proof (IMPORTANT). To service, you pull the 2 double-headed nails (or wood screws) out enough to allow the front to swing up. Look for feathers, down or egg shells to indicate successful hatch. Then remove all the old shavings and any other material and replace with 3 or 4 inches of clean, dry shavings. Swing down the front and tap back the nails into the front. The house is now ready for another nesting season.



These plans were provided by Chris Atkinson of New York via the Waterfowl Improvment Association, Inc. of Salem, NY